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Modern Designers: The rise of Iris Van Herpen

Lauded for her 3D printed dresses by TIME magazine, Iris Van Herpen has made a huge impact on modern fashion. She has carved a niche in the industry with her digital innovation and ethereal style, taking influences from a variety of natural forms. In the second part of our series on Modern Designers, we take a close look at her work and see how she developed her company into what it is today.

Find our article on Jacquemus here

Unlike most designers, Iris Van Herpen did not come from a fashion background. Originally, she was a classically trained ballet dancer. The feminine, graceful undertones of ballet inspired Iris Van Herpen, and, during her career, she has designed costumes for productions in places like the Paris Opera house. However, when she was younger, she did not think of combining the two forms. Instead, she decided to go to ArtEZ University of Arts, where she could learn fashion through the traditional route.

Having graduated in 2006, she undertook an internship at Alexander McQueen. Looking at the designs she produces now, it is clear to see how it influences her clothes today. The otherworldly aspects of McQueen’s haute couture, especially in his Plato’s Atlantis show, manifest themselves in the biomorphic style that we see in Iris Van Herpen’s designs today.

The otherworldly aspects of McQueen’s haute couture, especially in his Plato’s Atlantis show, manifest themselves in the biomorphic style that we see in Iris Van Herpen’s designs today.

After a further internship with Claudy Jongstra in Amsterdam, she founded her eponymous company, Iris Van Herpen. Her first big break came when Lady Gaga began wearing her outfits. As a young designer, this was a great way for her to get exposure in the industry. Having had a flavour of the limelight, she presented her first 3D print design in Amsterdam fashion week. The technical skill both in her design and technological endeavours received praise from many fashion critics at the time, and situated her on the front page of TIME magazine.

Today, Iris Van Herpen’s style is instantly recognisable. She is more daring than ever in her designs, challenging stereotypes, breaching the gap between modern day technology and natural forms. We certainly look forward to seeing what more she has in store for the fashion world…