Fashion Capitals: New York

But what really makes a fashion capital? In this series, we digitally hop around the world to all the fashion capitals to tell you a bit more about their history.

Levi Strauss

One of the first big names to appear in New York was Levi Strauss. Strauss came over from the Kingdom of Bavaria in 1829 to visit his brothers. While he was there, he started a wholesale company, eponymously named ‘Levis Strauss & Co’. Initially, he sold dry goods, which he got from his brothers. That was until he met one of his clients Jacob W. Davis. As one of the founders of the denim jeans, Davis urged Strauss to join him and produce a catalogue of . This was a huge success in New York. Many flocked to the store to . While this was not directly located in New York, it certainly foreshadowed its success to come…

The Shopping District

In 1860, New York began building up its shopping district, bringing with it a flux of new, ambitious fashion retailers. Stores like Macy’s and Tiffany & co. dominated the highstreet, and, as companies expanded, garment factories decided to relocate next door to save shipping costs. While this was financially viable, the upper class milieu, who were the clients of these stores, refused to mingle with the lower class factory workers. As a result, factories were forced to move, yet again, to Seventh Avenue away from the bourgeoisie fashion street. This gave rise to ‘The Tenderloin’, the ‘Garment District’ of New York. For decades, this has been the powerhouse of New York’s fashion industry. At its zenith, it held over 130 factories and 200,000 workers, who worked tirelessly to produce some of the finest pieces of haute couture ever to grace the Western world.

Charles James

Recognised for his highly structured ballgown designs, Charles James was one of the key designers in New York’s rise to fame in the fashion world. James travelled to New York from Chicago, where he called himself Charles Boucheron, when he set up his own hat-making shop. His father, coming from a military career, dismissed his son’s interest in fashion and did not allow him to use his real name, in case he should be associated with him. New York allowed James the freedom he needed to express himself in his fashionable endeavours. He changed back to his proper name, and, with only a few hats, a Pierce arrow, and fifty cents, he set about founding his own fashion company. One of the most striking features of his designs was their geometry. James’ family friend got him a job in an architectural design studio while he was in Chicago, and the mathematical aspect of his work there inspired the dresses he later made in New York. Soon, the public noticed his work. With this new found popularity, he quickly expanded to London. Designs like the ‘Four Leaf Clover’, a voluminous, four-lobed dress, and the ‘Diamond’ became instant hits with James’ clients; the artistic quality of his clothing attracting customers as diverse as Salvador Dalí. His clothing now spreading out worldwide, New York welcomed in a multitude of fashion savvy crowds to shape and redefine its city landscape.

World War 2 and Press Week

In Europe, couture houses were closing due to the rising tensions between countries, so uniform production moved over to New York. They manufactured a variety of wartime essentials including parachutes, clothes and other necessary apparel. Whereas before, they were competing with Europe, now they could take a more inventive approach to their fashion production.

Fashion week itself stemmed from Press week, an event designed to give New York a spotlight in the fashion world, and draw it away from European fashion. Journalists, who previously shunned New York’s fashion scene, took more of an interest in what designers had to offer…

Calvin Klein

Living in the Bronx in New York, Calvin Klein was introduced to fashion through his grandmother who owned a tailoring shop. When he was eighteen he went to fashion school, and, once he came out, began working with a variety of designers, who shaped his fashion style further. However, his big break came when Barry Schwartz, a childhood friend living in the Bronx, urged Klein to start his label with him. Together, they developed a brand, comparable to Yves Saint Laurent, placing an emphasis on lines, structure and the female figure. This attracted many rich clients, and became another sartorial landmark in New York’s landscape.

Ralph Lauren

Another designer to come out of the Bronx in New York was Ralph Lauren. Originally starting off as a businessman, he dropped out after two years to pursue a career in fashion, and worked with Brooks Brothers, a tie company in Manhattan. Out of this, emerged his eponymous label, ‘Ralph Lauren’. To start with, it specialised in the making of ties, however, with a little persuasion from the CEO, he branched out, and established his brand. As Lauren was a keen sports player, he decided to develop a line of clothing specifically targeted at those who shared his interests: Polo. With its eye catching design, Lauren headed out to department stores to sell his wares. While some were initially reluctant, he managed to secure a spot at Bloomingdales, which brought attention to his products. Nowadays, Ralph Lauren is known all over the world,